GLENGARRIFF

Monday 9.11 ~ Kilcrohane to Glengarriff, 43 km

When I go out this morning, to get my laundry from the clothesline, it's a beautiful sunny day. I pack up and when I open the door to leave, there is a blast of really cold air and no sun! It's back inside… to put the leggings on and wrap a scarf around my neck and under my jacket.

The only place open this morning is a small general store where I get some yogurt and chat with the owner. He has already been out for a swim this morning. My morning work out starts by immediately pushing the bike up a very steep road.

When I reach the top of the road I discover a jar with a note inside saying "What if everyone does everything out of love for free?" A wonderful thought to ponder on another glorious ride down the northern side of this peninsula with sheep, cows and a view over Bantry Bay.

Unfortunately, my camera battery is dead as I forgot to check it last night - not that I have that much to remember! There is not much in the way of stores along this desolate road so I am glad to happen upon a stray country craft shop. The light is off, but the door is open, so I venture in and give a holler. There’s no answer, so I go ahead and plug in my battery pack. After a while, a woman shows up and we have a great chat. She and her husband bought this 400 year old house 30 years ago, fixed it up, and now have their pottery studio and craft shop here. Turns out that she is originally from Germany - a town just 30 minutes from where I was born.

Battery charged up and camera back on, I'm back on the road and notice a lot of seagulls in one area. I'm thinking there must be great thermals until, farther on, I see a mussel processing facility and get it - easy food!

After a while I see an abandoned church for sale… it could be an opportunity for someone. I have noticed that the churches in Ireland are not necessarily in towns like elsewhere in Europe, and they are not an architectural focal point.

I arrive in the touristy town of Bantry and enjoy a broccoli and spinach soup with Irish soda bread and coffee. On my way out of town, I find a great health food store with local seaweed! Now I'm super fortified!! It's downhill out of town and a several km long ascent that is not so steep that I need to push the bike.

My final downhill for the day takes me into Glengarriff. It’s late afternoon and I'm seriously cold when I get to the harbor. Right away I see a church that has been converted into a cafe. It's is very charming and the inside is really cozy with insulating wood panels to keep it warm. While I'm warming up with tea, the owner tells me she and her husband bought this church 40 years ago and it is their home, except during the tourist season when they open the cafe.  

Farther in town, I find a hostel and have the entire third floor room to myself. After a hearty vegetable soup and Irish soda bread dinner with coffee, I go across the street to the Maple Leaf Pub and think I've walked into heaven - the sweetest live music is playing! It looks like locals jamming with a violin player, guitarist, flutist and mandolin player. They are singing songs and everyone in the pub joins in during the refrain. I end up meeting two flight attendants from England and a couple from Connecticut who have moved here permanently and are loving it. With the friendliness of the community and the beautiful scenery, I can see why.

A drizzly walk back to the hostel finishes off a wonderful day filled with Ireland’s magic.