CANALOUGH
Tuesday 9.12 ~ A Walking Day
I was happy to stay an extra night in Glengarriff as I want to check out the Nature Reserve.
Today is another sun-shining all-day type of day. I still lug rain gear with me, as I now understand that the weather can change in an instant!
It's a short walk out of town, and I enjoy all six of the Reserve loop walks which includes: a river walk, a meadow walk and a high-up see-over-the-mountain walk. It's a 10 km walk in total so I don't feel completely lazy today.
The afternoon is spent in a hotel restaurant that has Wi-Fi so. I type up my travel journal notes and send off a Mailchimp newsletter to my list of friends and followers.
Tomorrow I am headed to the Beara Peninsula. I think I have gotten spoiled riding on peninsulas that are still very remote. The Ring of Kerry is the most touristy peninsula route and has the most traffic and the dreaded tour buses. I think the landscape will make up for all of that though!
I'm sure glad that I like soup so much! In spite of being in the heart of seafood and meat country, I find the best vegetarian option that everyone always seems to have is the hearty soups. That, along with the delicious Irish soda bread and coffee, is the perfect meal for me.
Wednesday 9.13 ~ Glengarriff to Canalough, 45 km
It's another sunny day in Ireland and today I'm off to the Beara Peninsula!
The ride is up and down along a busy main road but I get lucky and find a secondary road up and away from traffic. There’s not a single car, which is a good thing since there isn't room for a car and a bike. Up here, with the sheep and blackberries, it’s chilly even with the sun.
I find a map of craft shops on the peninsula. The shops are the perfect break and give me a chance to warm up. The first stop is the Adrigole Arts craft shop, gallery and coffee room with ceramics, paintings, knitwear and jewelry. There are really talented crafts people in this area!
Then I’m off to Driftwood, home of the famous Beara Chair and handmade furniture, all displayed in the colorful charm of their wildflower gardens. They also have a huge dog, Yogi Bear, who shows off to get our attention. This is a great stop, because in addition to the super creative setting, they serve an over-the-top chocolate cake with fresh strong coffee. I'm refreshed in mind and body and ready to get back on my bike!
My next stop is the Mill Cove Gallery which has wonderful fine art ceramics and paintings. Their garden is full of fun and whimsical sculptures. The only thing I can afford, or fit on my bike, is a exquisite book on Irish ceramics. The owner of the gallery also is the publisher of the book and I really enjoy hanging out and chatting with the owners.
The gallery owners recommend Dzogchen Beara, a Buddhist Retreat with a hostel. They even call ahead to check on a room for me. Their detailed directions get me to the south side of Beara Peninsula, overlooking Bantry Bay.
I'm glad to get to the retreat because it's getting misty and overcast… and cold. The hostel is the oldest building on the property and sits high up over the bay.
There is a diverse group of young people from all over and we exchange stories. Most of the hostelers are doing work exchange. There is also home cooked vegetarian food that the kitchen makes for the retreat staff of 26.
There is a feeling of comradeship & everyone is on a mission.
I am surrounded by nature, art & kindred spirits!