TRAIL BREATHING
Day 3: 30 km to Deva via Zarauz, Geutaria, Zumaria and Ixtiar
The four of us, Michel, Julen, Rachel and myself head out together today. We climb up and out of town of Orio into the grape growing region. The next town is Zarauz, which is a resort town with a wide beach, golf course and lots of surfers. There is a famous restaurant with a celebrity chef who has his own TV show. We walk along the ocean promenade all the way to Guetaria.
Everyone was a bit nervous about the hike today because at the end, there is a very steep and long descent into the town of Deva. When we get to Ixtiar we discover to our surprise, that there are two elevators we can take to get to downtown Deva and avoid the long descent! We have to go to the tourist office and get our passport stamped and then take the elevators back up to an abandoned school that now serves as a pilgrim hostel. We are happy to be spared all that climbing.
There are a couple of volunteers at the hostel who show us where things are. One of them offers foot massages, so I quickly get in line. It turns out the foot angel lived in Miami and we know some of the same people. What a small world! After showering and laundry, a group of us heads out to dinner. We are a diverse group: Raymond and Michel from France; Zonovia and Eric from Belgium (Zinovia is originally from Greece). Zonovia and Eric both quit their jobs, sold everything and are traveling the world. Berrie, from Holland joins us later. Berrie has quit his job in the construction business and hopes time on the Camino will help him in deciding his next career step.
Scenes from the day:
DAY 4: 22km to Marquina-Jemein
There are lots of locals enjoying a sunny, breezy day on the Camino. We walk though quaint farming areas and through the woods. This day is easier walking physically - not very much pavement and I’ve passed the critical third day. My body is broken in now. We arrive in the town of Marquina-Jemein. There is a very small Catholic church. When we go in, all we see are three huge boulders touching each other with an inner open area. It feels... ancient. I wonder what inspired the idea to build the church around these clearly honored rocks.
Tonight's hostel is in a monastery and a very sweet gentleman checks us in. Julen brings a bottle of wine and we enjoy it with cheese and bread, and hanging out in front of a church celebrating happy hour. You can always spot the pilgrims... during the day we have our backpacks, and in the evening, we are the only ones in sandals, and usually minus socks. It’s really important for our feet to breathe as part of the blister prevention program.
DAY 5: 24 km to Gernika
There is something so familiar about this remote farm country. It could be anywhere in Europe: the farm homes are all so quaint, and look like chalets, they all have gardens and they look so organized. Additionally, in this part of Spain, some of them look so ancient. We cross through farms - literally: we open and close gates to keep the cows, sheep or horses in. Much of this day takes us through forest, usually with a stream close by. We stop for a snack in the small village of Munitibar. As with most of the villages we encounter, it has a piazza and a church. In the center of this piazza is an ancient monument with a spigot, so we can refill our water bottles with this naturally cold mountain water.
Michel is considered the best walker of our group and today I learn his breathing technique. He can go straight up a 433 meter (1,420’) mountain (the highest yet) without stopping or slowing his pace. It is amazing. His technique is: two breathes in through his nose and four breathes out through his mouth. Two exhales per inhale. So today I focus on that and am able to go up the mountain without stopping! Not as fast as Michel, but steady. It’s fun to learn the finer points of hiking.
We get to the hostel in Guernica by 5 pm and go through the usual routine of shower and laundry. Tonight is special because Michel has committed to preparing dinner for us. We are eleven people at a long table full of salad, potato pie, cheese, the best melon, and wine. It’s our Camino family! Half the table is speaking French and the other half Spanish. I don't understand much, but I'm happy being in such good company and enjoying the best meal on the Camino!
DAY 6: 21km to Lezama
On the way out of town, we admire the local architecture and get to see a reproduction of Pablo Picasso's famous painting Guernica done as a wall mosaic. At the top of one of our climbs, we find Eric, dressed in white, sitting on a rock - Buddha style - with his sunglasses. We stop to pay homage and laugh.
The agriculture in this region is diverse and abundant. We find fresh figs, walnuts, chestnuts and apples on the roadside (not in a farmers’ field). Michel always keeps a stash of walnuts in his backpack too. And... we do see a lot of the area’s famed pimentos hanging in barns and under eaves drying.
We get into the hostel in Lezama by 3pm - an early day. We go through the post hike routine, hang out and walk to dinner later in the evening. We have a very spirited meal with Michel, Eric, Xenobia and Raymond. The hostel is one big open room with 20 bunk beds and all the spaces are filled. Everyone is on good behavior - no snoring!
I am settling into trail mode and learning the ropes… opening up to the depth of this experience!