ALONG THE WAY

The Danube flows past many towns and through many lives.

BEST LAID PLANS

I camp the first two nights of my ride and discover the mornings are so cold that my hands have a hard time packing everything up. Either I pack up the tent wet or wait until 11 for everything to dry out. I opt for waiting… and I also opt for abandoning camping!

On the upside, I am glad that my gear all checked out and the next trip, I’ll know to start in September instead of October.

At the next town, I send my camping gear off to my cousins in Hamburg - where I’ll be flying out of. I’m liking my new lean bike set up.

Now under solid roofs, I spoil myself with a super hot shower at the end of each day and am happy to plop into a warm bed. Life is good!

ULM

The first large town I get to is Ulm. The cathedral at the center of town is huge and boasts the highest spire in the world! I’m delighted when I find a room overlooking it. Since the next day is going to rain, I book two nights here with this awesome view.

KELHEIM

There is a ferry where the Danube River cuts through a gorge before Kelheim. At this juncture is a monastery, that has well monetized its location, where you can get a great meal while waiting for your ferry ride. The place is packed. People are kayaking in the river and others are about with their hiking gear. It is the weekend and the ferry is a fun way to get out of town.

After Kelheim, I pass through agricultural areas where I see lettuce, big mounds of beets harvested for sugar, and corn ready for harvest.

REGENSBURG

The next big town is Regensburg. I get there in time for lunch and get to watch a protest moving through downtown.

I decide to make it a short day bicycling in order to spend the rest of the day exploring this cool place. There is interesting street sculpture, interesting old buildings and lots of young people out and about.

SHEEPHERDER

One day, I see lots of sheep being moved along by a dog. I see the sheepherder close by and stop to chat with her about life.

Her name is Bettina and she says they are constantly on the move except when it is time for the ewes to give birth. They have seasonal routes they follow throughout the year.

Bettina enjoys her life as a sheepherder and its nomadic qualities. I appreciate the way she is attuned to nature and her obvious sense of contentment.

A HEARTY SOUL!

Another day, I spot a bicyclist with camping gear on his bike who has stopped to read a sign. This time of year, its unusual to see long distance bicyclists. I have to stop and chat with him!

His name is Andre and he lives in Germany with his wife and three children. He works in an auto factory and has six days off due to a Covid work slow down. He has decided to bicycle to his home town of Bratislava.

I see him again, farther down the river, as he has stopped to dry out his camping gear. I learn that he was a beekeeper for 20 years back in Bratislava. He breaks open a jar of his honey and offers me some. I take a couple of tablespoons while we chat. I am honey energized and decide to go the full distance to Deggendorf which is an additional 30 km.

It is such a long day that I’m still on the route as the sun is setting and the moon is rising. It is just lovely! As a special treat, there happens to be a coffee kiosk right there next to the river. I watch the sun go down as I drink my coffee appreciative of this beautiful day and of the special people along the way.

I am now coffee energized for the next sprint into town to find a hotel…