KILLARNEY
Tuesday 9.18 ~ Waterville to Killarney, 63 km
Another sunny day in Ireland! I stop to pick up lunch food and set out by 10 am. I’m biking the Ring of Kerry and taking the center inland route instead of the popular north coast road to Killarney. Even though it’s September there is too much traffic, too many big tour buses, and they all drive too fast on the coast road. It feels like it would not be fun.
The inland route is an off the beaten path road with amazing vistas - at a wonderful pace with frequent stops. What I like about bicycling is that I can stop anytime for these great photo ops and there is hardly any traffic.
The route today also has a 4 km uphill climb but thankfully its before lunch. In preparation for the climb, I stop at a pub for another coffee and have an engaging conversation with the proprietor about endurance, stamina and willpower - all of which I will embrace as I continue on this route!
Lovely rolling hills mark this part of my route. Farther on I see newly planted pine trees with trenches dug around the forest to allow for drainage. There is a signpost explaining the areas forest management. Then, the climb gets steeper and I push the bike until I reach the Ballaghisheen Pass. At the top, it is super windy with a view over the low open valley ahead. It’s a glorious ride down!
I stop when I see a farmer and his two dogs working in a bog field by the road. I ask him what he is doing and he says he is shaping and stacking the peat bogs (they call it Turf) for fire wood. I learn that Turf burns cleaner than coal and because this was such a wet season, the bricks won’t be ready for another year.
It’s mid-afternoon when I stop in Glencar where there is a pub and I enjoy a hot tea with bread and cheese. It’s 2pm and I’ve gone halfway.
Next, it’s up and down through the valley with mostly sheep pasture. By 3pm, it’s seriously cold.
I see a sign for Dunloe Castle and “Food Served All Day”. I ride along the grand driveway with elegant ponies in the pasture. The ‘castle’ is actually a new building made to look like a rendition of a castle. Either way, it’s plush, opulent and warm inside with a welcoming fireplace. I don’t see anyone at first, but find a server and order a nice hot coffee!
Re-energized and back on the road, I am enjoying the scenery until I get to the dreaded major N72… it is very bumpy and noisy, and 6 more km to Killarney. Off to the right, in the woods, I spot a bike/ped path that is closed off. I find a way to get in and see that they have just paved it, and are apparently not finished with the repairs, so it is still closed off. It looks good to me!
The path is smooth and it is a quiet solitary ride through the woods. It joins up with an existing bike/ped path that has joggers, people walking their pets and moms with strollers. I arrive in Killarnary, a very cute and touristy town with lots of people, where I end up at The Neptune Hostel.
I’m staying an extra night as I want to spend a day in Killarney National Park!