ISTANBUL
BEAUTIFUL ARCHITECTURE
Upon arriving at the Grand Coach bus station in Istanbul, on the European side of the city, I take the subway to the Askaray Metro Station because I want to get closer to downtown and experience Istanbul’s subway.
From there I choose to push my bike two miles to the Erenler Hotel & Hostel in the old part of town. I want to go slow and absorb the sights, sounds and smells. I’m impressed with the number of grand mosques and the many, many small shops and restaurants that line the picturesque streets.
Since there is no storage for my bike at the hostel, I make my way on the ferry across the Bosphorus Strait to the Asian side of the waterway, where Ben has so kindly found a home for it until I return in May. We meet at Kahverengi Cafe to catch up, before Ben carries my bike up three flights of stairs to its new home across the street.
I know Ben Allen through this brother Tom Allen, who is the co-founder of the Transcaucasian Trail (TCT), and through the TCT NGO in Armenia spearheaded mapping and building the TCT in Armenia. I follow Tom’s blog which led me to visit Armenia. While I was in Armenia and staying at Tom and Tenny’s Dilijan Hikers Hostel, Ben was visiting too - so we all had dinner together. Ben is a writer, like Tom.
MOSQUES AND LANDMARKS
Istanbul is a city of stunning mosques! The most famous is the Blue Mosque, completed in 1616, which has cool lighting from the stained glass windows. The next landmark I saw is the Yeni Mosque, facing the Galata Bridge, with its vibrant golden glowing windows under the evening light.
The Galata Tower, on the other side of the Galata Bridge from the Yeni Mosque, is one of the oldest towers in the world and made the backdrop for my favorite photos. From there I visited the Dolmabahçe Palace, which sits on the Bosphorus Strait shore, and is a more European style palace with opulent gardens and large chandeliers in main rooms. “The Dolmabahce Palace holds the unique distinction of being the largest palatial residence in Turkey. With 285 rooms, 6 baths, 68 washrooms, and 46 halls, the structure covers an expanse of more than eleven acres.”
Also pictured: Two buildings with no name and the Nusretiye Mosque, Galataport historical tower and sculpture at the entrance to the Museum of Modern Art.
CATS RULE!
It’s true here in Instanbul. They are everywhere, even in the window of a shoe store. They are well cared for too!
STREET SCENES
While old Istanbul is a historical city, it hosts whimsical modern street art. It’s typical to see deliveries made by hand cart, especially on narrow streets. Mushrooms can be efficiently delivered via motorcycle. I get to witness an anti-racism protest in front of a parliamentary building. They get it.
PEOPLE
I need balance after all the historical architecture and especially after the opulence of the Dolmabahçe Palace. I am happy to arrive at the Museum of Modern Art! While I am enjoying the collections, a young man comments on my skirt. A conversation ensues and I learn that Georgy and his friend Vlad are visiting from Russia and are studying architecture. Georgy is leaving shortly for a year long internship in Hong Kong. He is so appreciative of my skirt design that I offer to send him one in Hong Kong. They are ‘traveling skirts’ for sure!
Interacting with the people of Istanbul is a delightful way to learn about the city. I love that each time Ben and I meet up, it’s at a different cafe, and I like finding my way around the Asian side of Istanbul. I enjoy meeting Ben’s girlfriend, Handenaz, who works remotely in customer service. Gulhane Park, around the corner from my hostel, is my favorite place for relaxing and people watching. It also includes the very informative Archeological Museum. I also enjoyed visiting Strong Roots Istanbul which has a great library and after school program for children. I get there by taking a lovely long ferry ride up the Bosphorus coast.
MY NEIGHBORHOOD
Directly across the street from the hostel is a restaurant (not on Google but same owner as Ali Baba Gift Land next door) that is just right for hanging out in the evening and getting tea and something to eat. I chat with Zuma, a manager, and the owners who are very welcoming. Dina is very fashionably dressed, from France, staying at the same hostel and spends time here too. We meet Lisa and Dino, from Denmark, who share stories of their lives. Dina and I check out the Dervish performance in another restaruant down the street.
Next to the hostel is Hitbid Turkish Desserts shop where Nada greets me every day with the biggest smile and a dessert to taste. Nada is studying mechanical and electric engineering and she will join her father’s company after she graduates. I’m happy to bring some Turkish Delights back to the U.S.
After a day of running around, I stop at Sky Life Fish Kebab House, down the street from my hostel, where a young man brings me a delicious mushroom cream dish with a cappuccino and a complimentary baklava dessert. On a different day, as I walk by, he says “You must stop and drink a coffee.” so I do and he doesn’t charge me.
A highlight of my week in Istanbul is a full treatment at the Alaturka Haman, a Traditional Turkish Bath. Full treatment consists of a clay facial, then into the sauna for 15 minutes, and then 15 minutes in the steam room. After this, I lay on a marble slab where Kurman, who is from Nepal, gives me a traditional body scrub with a lavender soap rinse. All the grime from my bike ride, and maybe my life, is simply scrubbed off. I feel like a new person! Topping if off is an hour of relaxing massage. I can’t wait to come back and experience this again.
THE BAZAAR
Such a diversity of objects, colors and textures with a constant hubbub of activity!
FOOD
So many Turkish Delights! Instead of eating too many Turkish Delights, I visually enjoy them as eye candy. My treat is every day is enjoying a tall cup of fresh pomegranate seeds.
On my last day, I’m in no hurry to rush off. I have a wonderful conversation with Mimi, my roommate at the hostel, who is from Indonesia and has a travel company. She has a great life traveling and helping people. She used to live in Istanbul and kindly takes me to the the station, where I need to catch the bus to the airport… with my new heavy bag of gifts that takes two of us to carry!
Jo and I made reservations at different hostels in Istanbul. We both had busy agendas but did get together to celebrate our successful ride through the Balkans. I’m already looking forward to returning to Istanbul in the spring, reconnecting with the people I met here, visiting the Haman and eating more delicious food!
Reflections ahead…