SLOVENIA

MOST NA SOCI

Our adventure begins with a train ride from Ljubljana to Most na Soci. It’s a short bike ride from the train to the Trans Dinarica Trail, which quickly welcomes us with the type of up-hill challenges we are going to encounter along our route. Jo and I come to a section that is thankfully short, as it is so steep we have to unload our bags and carry them up the hill, and then push our bikes up. It is a first day initiation that we hope won’t be repeated!

The route does undulate, and the day has us riding along the beautiful emerald green Soca River with mountain views beyond. We end up in Kanal, and find a campground right next to the river with a view of the church, whose bells ring in the night hours.

STANJEL

The morning brings a lovely day of cycling, eazy peazy, until we get to the final two miles of the day which delivers 1,000’ of climbing. After the strenuous ascent Jo and I reach the lovely medieval walled in town of Stanjel which sits on top of the mountain. The town dates back to the stone age and offers views of the Vipana Valley (the wine growing region) and the Karst region (a rocky limestone plateau). Stanjel is where we stay the night. I take an evening stroll and visit the Ferrari Garden, which is considered a cultural and architectural monument in Slovenia, and enjoy a vivid high elevation sunset.

ILISKA BISTRICA

The next leg of our journey offers ideal cycling with soft undulating terrain. At an intersection, we see an impressive produce stand and equally impressive pile of stacked wood. In the town of Iliska Bistrica, we find an RV park where the owner (Danilo) tells us there is no tent camping. After we talk some more (I think he enjoys engaging with us in conversation) he allows us to tent camp. Since I didn’t pack a tent, I sleep under a grape arbor and greatly enjoy a night filled with the sweet smell of ripe grapes!

Our evening in Iliska Bistrica happens during the 40th birthday celebration for Danilo’s son. Over 100 people fill his restaurant and there is upbeat dance music and a sparkling fireworks display at 3am. The next morning, Danilo invites us into the restaurant for coffee, delicious homemade cake and a tour of his wife’s artwork which is very impressive. Danilo and his wife are very humble in this treasure of a place.

We spend 4 nights on the route in Slovenia covering a little over 100 miles with 6,700 feet of climbing. Jo and I are a good team and have our travel rhythm in sync.

On to Croatia…